Convergence
Although Marian Burros doesn't really go into detail on joys of
mackerel -- which are manifold, at least for Atlantic mackerel -- she
does (inadvertently) bring up the problems with eating down on the
food chain, explained in a heroically discursive post two years ago.
How did I write all that? Problem: once humans really start competing
with big pelagic fish for dinner, whatever we haven't already fished
out of existence will be doubly fucked.
Coincidentally, my "solution" then (there is of course no solution
except the chance that your own mortality will arrive before the
oceans') was Colman Andrews's anchovy spines, which I still endorse.
Just to prove that I do like the guy. I'm sure it's superfluous to
tell you to buy the book.
Furthermore, I've got some (sustainably fished, local, montessori)
sturgeon salting in the fridge wrapped in lemon leaves, inspired by
Saveur's latest Sorrento article (I swear they did another one in the
last 5 years or so... I guess I could look it up in that sexy new
recipe index... or you could). I can confirm that the mozzarella
grilled thusly is indeed "the bomb."
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